讲座 | DEFILÉ : 时尚+空间广西快三和值推荐设计


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            DEFILÉ : 时尚+空间广西快三和值推荐设计


             时间 / Time 

            2019年 1月10日  

            12:30 - 14:00

             Jan. 10th, 2019  

            地点 / Venue 


             Aquarium  Lecture Hall, 

            College of Design and

            Innovation, Tongji University

            讲者 / Speaker 

            Associate Professor

            Dr. Javier Fernández Contreras 

            Head of Interior Architecture at HEAD – Genève



            学术主持 / Moderator 

            Prof. SUN Jie

             言 / Language 



            主办 / Organizer 


            Tongji D&I, New Center of Contemproary

             Jewellery and Fashion Culture ( NoCC ) .

            关于讲座 / About the Talk 

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            时尚是社会、经济、生活的一种重要表现,它使我们反思当代社会的多重悖论。什么是 “时尚”?它在当今社会中是如何运作的?有些东西备受大家追捧变得时尚,甚至极其昂贵,被视为拉动经济与创新的手段?另一方面,作为时尚产业的一部分,为什么某些服装品牌不得不在快过季的时候销毁服装,甚至造成消极的环境问题?由此投射出一个概念:"理想体" ,它是否像一个完美的服装人台或是衣柜里的衣架,可以被换上不同的衣服?亦或是阿姆斯特丹某个能吸引成千上万眼球的橱窗女郎?

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            时尚秀场的设计多是临时广西快三和值推荐的最终体现: 它只为了那场稍纵即逝的秀,往往只存在一天。时尚秀融合了几种类型: 广西快三和值推荐, 室内设计, 布景。撇除广西快三和值推荐和设计本身, 这同时意味着整个活动的策划。与秀场存在的时间极短恰恰相反的是, 整场秀极致的呈现和媒体铺天盖地的曝光。时装秀场不能仅仅是模特走秀的基础设施。时装秀场搭建的时效性以及其对大众媒体形象的需求使它面临着另一个挑战:它不应该如同时尚一般被重演,而是应该具有创新实验性和光鲜亮丽的特质。新的材料、新的类别、新的选址、新的碰撞——每一个细节和设计决策都应该能够使人反思过去、展望未来。但是,时装秀场的搭建不应该抢去了当季时装的风头,而应该成为衬托时装更好地呈现的完美布景。再者,时装秀的时效性和预算的限制或许不能完美地实现设计师的想法,所以设计师需要预备多重解决方案以应对隔天就要拆除的装置和舞台。但对于秀场搭建者来说,最重要的成败因素还是光影、色彩、视角和机位。Javier Fernández Contreras副教授,将以他在瑞士日内瓦艺术与设计学院的教学与研究为基础,为大家解读时尚秀场与空间广西快三和值推荐设计的关系。

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            Fashion show makes us reflect on multiple paradoxes of contemporary society. What is "fashion"? How does it operate in the economy of today? Why do certain things become trendy and extremely expensive from one day to another, and why at the same time luxury brands have to destroy their garments in the end of the season? Another topic of reflection is the notion of the "ideal body". Is that a perfectly generic "mannequin" suitable for any piece of clothing like a hanger in the cupboard or is it a sex idol for millions?

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            Design of a fashion show is the ultimate expression of temporary architecture: it is built for just 1 day, in order to be a podium for evanescent fashion trends. Fashion show combines several genres: architecture, interior design, scenography. Besides architecture, that means as well designing an event. On the contrary to its short lifespan, its representation and media presence should be very big, the fashion show can not just be an infrastructure for walking mannequins. Temporary character and its aspiration for a popular media image together create another challenge for fashion show architecture: it should never repeat itself, like fashion, it should be innovative and experimental, it should be flashy and viral. New materials, new typologies, new locations, new provocations - every detail and design decision should rethink the cliché. Yet, fashion show architecture shouldn't overcast the garments of the new collection. It should be beautiful and inspiring, yet it should be a perfect background, not the main object of interest. Besides, although the limits aren't set for the designer's fantasy, fashion shows are temporary and therefore their budget is limited: one needs to think of simple solutions and non-expensive materials, because the day after the show the whole installation will be removed. Therefore the main elements of the fashion show, with which the architect can work are: light and shadow, colors and reflections, point of view and camera angles.  

            关于讲者 / About Speaker

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            西班牙广西快三和值推荐师、设计理论家,瑞士日内瓦艺术与设计学院空间广西快三和值推荐设计系主任。他曾在马德里广西快三和值推荐学院学习广西快三和值推荐并获得博士学位。他的职业生涯结合了广西快三和值推荐的研究和学业实践。曾在任职于西班牙ETSAM 广西快三和值推荐学院(2007-2012)、中国西安交大-利物浦学院 (2013-2014年) 和瑞士苏黎世 ETH学院广西快三和值推荐系。他的专业项目出版发行于多本国际专著, 实践活动跨越了欧洲和美国的不同展览。他关于广西快三和值推荐和地域、当代广西快三和值推荐师的重要表现和设计技术的批评文章也多次发表在《科布塞内斯大学的马西莉亚年鉴》, 《都市研究的前景》, Princeton 306090, CIRCO Drawing Matter, ZARCH, Arquitectura COAM, RA Revista de Arquitectura 等有国际影响力的出版物。

            Dr. Javier Fernández Contreras is a Spanish architect, theorist and Head of the Department of Interior Architecture at HEAD – Genève. He studied architecture at the Madrid School of Architecture – ETSAM. His professional career combines the professional and academic practices of architecture. Dr. Contreras has taught architectural design at ETSAM in Spain (2007-2012), Xi’an Jiaotong-Liverpool University in China (2013-2014) and the Department of Architecture at ETH Zurich in Switzerland. His professional projects have been published in eight books and included in different exhibitions in Europe and USA. His critical essays on architecture and territory, critical representation and the design techniques of contemporary architects have been published in Massilia Annuaire des Études Corbuséennes, Perspectives in Metropolitan Research, Princeton 306090, CIRCO, Drawing Matter, ZARCH, Arquitectura COAM, RA Revista de Arquitectura, etc.


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